{"id":2527,"date":"2026-09-14T20:08:46","date_gmt":"2026-09-14T20:08:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/?p=2527"},"modified":"2026-09-14T20:08:46","modified_gmt":"2026-09-14T20:08:46","slug":"deep-plowing-vs-surface-tilling","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/deep-plowing-vs-surface-tilling\/","title":{"rendered":"Cover Crops: Deep Plowing vs. Surface Tilling for Humus"},"content":{"rendered":"\n\n<div class=\"kk-star-ratings kksr-auto kksr-align-left kksr-valign-top\"\n    data-payload='{&quot;align&quot;:&quot;left&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;2527&quot;,&quot;slug&quot;:&quot;default&quot;,&quot;valign&quot;:&quot;top&quot;,&quot;ignore&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;reference&quot;:&quot;auto&quot;,&quot;class&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;count&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;legendonly&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;readonly&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;score&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;starsonly&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;best&quot;:&quot;5&quot;,&quot;gap&quot;:&quot;5&quot;,&quot;greet&quot;:&quot;Rate this&quot;,&quot;legend&quot;:&quot;0\\\/5 - (0 votes)&quot;,&quot;size&quot;:&quot;24&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Cover Crops: Deep Plowing vs. Surface Tilling for Humus&quot;,&quot;width&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;_legend&quot;:&quot;{score}\\\/{best} - ({count} {votes})&quot;,&quot;font_factor&quot;:&quot;1.25&quot;}'>\n            \n<div class=\"kksr-stars\">\n    \n<div class=\"kksr-stars-inactive\">\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" data-star=\"1\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" data-star=\"2\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" data-star=\"3\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" data-star=\"4\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" data-star=\"5\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n    <\/div>\n    \n<div class=\"kksr-stars-active\" style=\"width: 0px;\">\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n    <\/div>\n<\/div>\n                \n\n<div class=\"kksr-legend\" style=\"font-size: 19.2px;\">\n            <span class=\"kksr-muted\">Rate this<\/span>\n    <\/div>\n    <\/div>\n<div class=\"tldr-box\" style=\"background: #f4f9f4; padding: 20px; border-left: 5px solid #4CAF50; margin-bottom: 30px; border-radius: 4px;\">\n<h3>\ud83d\udccc Quick Summary (TL;DR): The Cover Crop &amp; Humus Debate<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>\ud83c\udf31 <strong>The Core Debate:<\/strong> Should green manure (cover crops) be deeply plowed into the soil, or just lightly tilled into the surface?<\/li>\n<li>\u26cf\ufe0f <strong>Deep Plowing (The Pro-Anaerobic Argument):<\/strong> One grower argues that burying cover crops deeply (10-12 inches) slows down mineralization and increases humification, preventing nutrients from washing away.<\/li>\n<li>\ud83c\udf42 <strong>Surface Tilling (The Pro-Aerobic Argument):<\/strong> Another grower argues that true humus is only created by aerobic bacteria and earthworms in the top layer (Horizon A). Burying green matter deeply in sandy loam causes it to ferment (ensile) or rot, potentially breeding pathogens like <em>Fusarium<\/em>.<\/li>\n<li>\ud83c\udf49 <strong>Bonus Tip:<\/strong> Growing watermelons or pumpkins on poor sandy soil? Dig a large hole and fill it with 3 buckets of rich compost\/soil per mound. The result? Watermelons up to 10.4 kg (23 lbs)!<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"add-review-cta\" style=\"margin: 20px 0; padding: 15px; background: #f9f9f9; border-left: 4px solid #4CAF50; border-radius: 4px;\"><strong>\ud83d\udcac What is your cover crop strategy? Do you till deep or use no-till?<\/strong> <a href=\"#wpdcom\">Join the debate below!<\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">T<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">Tatka (Tatiana) <span class=\"author-stats\">\u2b50 Pro Grower (34,811 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd Kazan<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<blockquote><p><strong>On 9\/5\/2026 at 7:50 PM, DRYGAN said:<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>According to the laws of agriculture, it is recommended to turn over (plow) heavy soils no more than twice a year, and light soils just once.<br \/>\nI have sandy loam, and during that one single time, I turn the soil over in the autumn, plowing the green mass of the cover crops down to a depth below 15 cm (6 inches) to accumulate humus, which is very scarce in sandy loam. In other words, cover crops tilled shallowly are just fertilizer; tilled deeply, they replenish humus.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>Vadim, I have learned a completely different approach for myself, and I never till cover crops deeply. I only lightly hoe them into the very top layer of the soil (in greenhouses) or leave them right on the surface as mulch (outdoors in open ground).<\/p>\n<p>Doesn&#8217;t deep burial of cover crops cause rotting processes due to the lack of oxygen? And exactly which microorganisms are supposed to turn grass into humus deep down without air?<\/p>\n<p>As far as I know, humus does not form deep underground; on the contrary, it forms in the topsoil (usually the top 6 inches), where the vast majority of beneficial microflora and oxygen are concentrated. It is exactly there that bacteria process organic matter into stable humic compounds. If you bury a large volume of juicy green mass deeper than 15 cm (6 inches), oxygen access is sharply restricted. The bacteria simply won&#8217;t have enough oxygen to create humus, and instead of proper aerobic decomposition with the help of earthworms and beneficial bacteria, anaerobic fermentation and rotting will begin. This environment breeds putrefactive bacteria and pathogenic fungi, which can infect the roots of your crops in the spring.<\/p>\n<p>Sandy loam is indeed poor in humus, but you need to increase it by adding more organic matter to the top layer, not by burying it deeper. Sandy loam is very loose, meaning it already has an excess of oxygen in the top layer, which causes organic matter to burn up (mineralize) quickly. But if you bury cover crops deeper than 6 inches in sandy soil, the nutrients will simply be washed even deeper into the subsoil by autumn-spring rains and melting snow\u2014right past where the roots of most vegetables can even reach. Therefore, the most effective method for light soils is to leave cover crops on the surface as mulch or till them only into the very top layer (2 to 3 inches, maximum 6 inches).<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">J<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">Jacline (Olga) <span class=\"author-stats\">\u2b50 Pro Grower<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd Tomsk<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<blockquote><p><strong>On 9\/10\/2026 at 7:30 PM, Tatka said:<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>That&#8217;s it! The tomato season is officially over. I cleaned out both greenhouses, fumigated them with Bomber smoke bombs, and left them sealed for three days.<br \/>\nOn September 13th, I&#8217;ll open them to air out, and on September 15th, I&#8217;ll give them a deep watering, add autumn fertilizers and soil goodies, turn the beds, sow cover crops, and inoculate with Trichoderma.<br \/>\nFeeling pretty productive right now! \ud83d\ude0e<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>Tanya, do you wash the walls of your greenhouse?<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/uploads\/monthly_2026_09\/20551813_1.jpg.f38527492e13c50424639a468ceb18d4.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/uploads\/monthly_2026_09\/1446091176_1.thumb.jpg.c838ac391ca2f05709dc2895fccaa81c.jpg\" alt=\"Cleaned out greenhouse\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" \/><\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/uploads\/monthly_2026_09\/1047897780_2.jpg.588b000c298b1e7bd39b8807d74d5076.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/uploads\/monthly_2026_09\/1337820130_2.thumb.jpg.104fba79fc9b31e45f3d1b56383e3558.jpg\" alt=\"Greenhouse prepped for winter\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">T<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">Tatka (Tatiana) <span class=\"author-stats\">\u2b50 Pro Grower (34,811 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd Kazan<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>Olya, I used to always wash them with just plain water from the hose (but back then I didn&#8217;t use fumigation smoke bombs). This year I was in a hurry because the tomatoes kept me busy late into the season due to the weather, and I really want the cover crops to have time to grow big. So this time I decided to just use the smoke bombs. Honestly, they don&#8217;t look very dirty from the inside, no green algae either&#8230; I&#8217;ll wash them in early spring, right before doing another round of smoke bombs. I want to do a second fumigation just to be safe before the next season starts.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">T<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">Tatka (Tatiana) <span class=\"author-stats\">\u2b50 Pro Grower (34,811 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd Kazan<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>My cover crops sown on September 1st are getting bigger, while the ones sown on the 6th are just starting to sprout.<\/p>\n<p>The watermelon bed.<br \/>\nThe pumpkin bed.<\/p>\n<p>The markers on these two beds (stones on the first and metal stakes on the second) are placed there so I don&#8217;t lose the exact planting holes I spent so much time making this spring. These beds were made from piles: the watermelon one from very old, well-rotted manure, and the pumpkin one from unused peat. Both of them retain moisture very poorly. Therefore, I first dug huge holes in them, and then hauled 3 buckets of good topsoil from other beds into each hole. The result was significantly better, and the watermelons grew much larger, around 4-6 kg (8.8-13 lbs), with the biggest one weighing 10.4 kg (23 lbs)! Last year they were tiny, no more than 2 kg (4.4 lbs).<\/p>\n<p>The pumpkins also yielded well, though I wasn&#8217;t chasing size with them; on the contrary, I specifically planted single-serving portion varieties. But quantity-wise, there were a lot of them.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/uploads\/monthly_2026_09\/215980400_-2.jpg.047ebcfd1579bc099c38a50fa7f86693.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/uploads\/monthly_2026_09\/1676088341_-2.thumb.jpg.a8ee4c5af2c4e0027730c4cdf28a3b0a.jpg\" alt=\"Cover crops sprouting on watermelon bed\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" \/><\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/uploads\/monthly_2026_09\/1472008756_-.jpg.e63830d77bf749d4e814304af1bd7873.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/uploads\/monthly_2026_09\/1954708714_-.thumb.jpg.97e0ac1ec60562cc6f9ce0daf9dd3709.jpg\" alt=\"Cover crops on pumpkin bed\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">D<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">DRYGAN (Vadim) <span class=\"author-stats\">\u2b50 Pro Grower<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd Minsk<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<blockquote><p><strong>Tatka said:<\/strong><br \/>\nI never till cover crops deeply. I only lightly hoe them into the very top layer of the soil&#8230; Doesn&#8217;t deep burial of cover crops cause rotting processes due to the lack of oxygen?<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>Tatiana! The humus layer is not located in the very top layer of the soil by definition. If it were, being in aerobic conditions, it would very quickly break down\u2014meaning it would mineralize into mineral salts. Therefore, to increase soil fertility, you need to facilitate the process of humus accumulation.<br \/>\nCover crops (roots and aerial parts) tilled into the top 5-10 cm (2-4 inches) in spring and summer decompose under aerobic conditions. The results of this decomposition mineralize rapidly, becoming so abundant that the crops cannot absorb it all. Much of it is lost.<br \/>\nHowever, if you plow the green mass of cover crops under for the winter to a depth of 25-30 cm (10-12 inches), they will slowly decompose under anaerobic conditions. Full decomposition down to mineralization does not happen, and as a result, organic matter (humus) will accumulate in the soil.<br \/>\nIt is important to understand the main point: if the topsoil gets organic matter in the spring, frequent summer hoeing will convert (mineralize) it into mineral salts useful to plants. But there can be huge losses due to rain washing it away. If the organic matter is buried deep for the winter, it gets preserved\u2014meaning it turns into humus instead of being lost.<\/p>\n<p>That is why, in spring, I will sow cover crops on my empty plot, then mow them and till them into the surface layer, and immediately plant a second round of cover crops on top of it. This second crop will be plowed under in autumn, right before winter, to a deep depth. Then in spring, I will plant my main crops over it. That\u2019s the theory behind my practice. And for me, the term &#8220;rotting\/putrefaction&#8221; is more applicable to a backyard compost pit where kitchen scraps pile up with minimal microbes and air. For soil, the terms &#8220;aerobic&#8221; and &#8220;anaerobic&#8221; conditions are much more accurate, because soil has infinitely more biota than a garbage pit, and thanks to its structure, even when dense, it has more pores for air to enter.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">T<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">Tatka (Tatiana) <span class=\"author-stats\">\u2b50 Pro Grower (34,811 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd Kazan<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<blockquote><p><strong>DRYGAN said:<\/strong><br \/>\nIf you plow the green mass of cover crops under for the winter to a depth of 25-30 cm, they will slowly decompose under anaerobic conditions. Full decomposition down to mineralization does not happen, and as a result, humus will accumulate.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>Oh, Vadim, I think you are deeply mistaken and are confusing two completely different processes: humification (the creation of humus) and conservation (ensiling\/fermentation).<\/p>\n<p>I have completely different information ingrained in my head regarding this. Here are a few points I&#8217;ve saved on the subject&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>Humus is not just buried grass; it is the byproduct of earthworms and aerobic microorganisms, and they cannot work without oxygen. Consequently, humification is impossible in anaerobic conditions. Humification requires oxygen, earthworms, aerobic bacteria, and fungi. They break down the organic matter and assemble complex humic molecules from it.<\/p>\n<p>Without air access at a depth of 10-12 inches (25\u201330 cm), what happens is not humification, but souring and conservation (like making silage). The organic matter indeed breaks down slowly there, but not because it&#8217;s turning into humus\u2014it&#8217;s because there is nothing down there to properly digest it. In the spring, when you till that soured layer, it will start actively rotting, releasing gases toxic to roots (methane, hydrogen sulfide).<\/p>\n<p>The main thing plant pathologists warn about: an anaerobic environment and rotting plant debris deep in the soil is the ultimate incubator for root rots (<em>Fusarium<\/em>, <em>Pythium<\/em>, <em>Rhizoctonia<\/em>), which will attack your seedlings in the spring.<\/p>\n<p>In greenhouse and commercial agronomy, anaerobic conditions are a disaster. Without oxygen, nitrogen turns into toxic ammonia and denitrifies (evaporates into the air), while phosphorus and iron convert into oxidized forms unavailable to plants.<\/p>\n<blockquote><p><strong>DRYGAN said:<\/strong><br \/>\nThe humus layer is not located in the very top layer of the soil by definition.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>The soil layer richest in humus is called the humus-accumulative horizon (Horizon A), and it is <strong>always<\/strong> located at the top (in nature, right beneath the forest litter or prairie grass mat). The most intense biological activity happens precisely in the top 10\u201320 cm (4-8 inches).<br \/>\nIf humus only formed at a depth of 30 cm without air, our forests and prairies would be barren deserts, and the fertile topsoil would be buried deep underground.<\/p>\n<p>Your scheme with double sowing is good, but in my opinion, only the first half of it\u2014where you talk about &#8220;tilling the summer cover crop into the surface layer.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>But I disagree with the second part. Burying an autumn cover crop 12 inches deep right before winter is a conscious disregard for aerobic microflora. And for light sandy loam soils, burying it that deep is simply a waste of fertilizer. Sandy loam lacks the clay or silt particles that have binding capacity; it has a very low cation exchange capacity. Therefore, whatever you bury 30 cm deep will instantly be washed even deeper into the subsoil and groundwater by spring snowmelt and rains. The plants in the spring simply won&#8217;t reach those nutrients, because the bulk of the seedling roots are located much higher up early in life.<\/p>\n<p>So, I will stick to my farming method, where all organic matter decomposes right where oxygen and life are waiting for it\u2014on the surface or in the very top layer.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">D<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">DRYGAN (Vadim) <span class=\"author-stats\">\u2b50 Pro Grower<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd Minsk<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>There are two simultaneous and oppositely directed processes in the soil related to the transformation of organic matter: mineralization and humification (ensiling is off-topic here). Fresh organic matter introduced into the soil (whether cover crops or manure) breaks down into mineral salts (mineralizes) by 70-80%. The remaining 20-30% undergoes humification. The better the conditions (aerobic) are for mineralization, the faster and more completely the organic matter breaks down. So, very little is left for humification.<\/p>\n<p>That is why, when fresh organic matter is added with the sole purpose of increasing the humus content in the soil, we must take all available measures to slow down the rate of mineralization to increase the humification coefficient. One important technique here is deep plowing of manure or crop residues, which creates conditions for anaerobic decomposition; as a result, mineralization slows down, and the humification coefficient rises.<\/p>\n<p>This is not the only way to slow down mineralization. For example, adding cereal straw with a wide C:N ratio (60-80:1) also helps. Also, one should adhere to optimal deep digging regimes to avoid unnecessarily exposing the humus layer to the surface. If brought up, it will immediately undergo deep mineralization under aerobic conditions, and the resulting nutrients may not all be absorbed by the crops and will be inefficiently washed into lower horizons.<\/p>\n<p>All my conclusions regarding humification are taken from the source: <em>&#8220;Regulating the Humus Balance in the Soil&#8221;<\/em> by A.I. Zhukov and N.D. Popov, Moscow, 1989. If you carefully read this source, Tatiana, you will conclude who among us is mistaken about how to till cover crops to increase humus.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\ud83d\udccc Quick Summary (TL;DR): The Cover Crop &amp; Humus Debate \ud83c\udf31 The Core Debate: Should green manure (cover crops) be deeply plowed into the soil, or just lightly tilled into the surface? \u26cf\ufe0f Deep Plowing (The Pro-Anaerobic Argument): One grower argues that burying cover crops deeply (10-12 inches) slows down mineralization and increases humification, preventing &#8230; <a title=\"Cover Crops: Deep Plowing vs. Surface Tilling for Humus\" class=\"read-more\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/deep-plowing-vs-surface-tilling\/\" aria-label=\"Read more about Cover Crops: Deep Plowing vs. Surface Tilling for Humus\">Read more<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2527,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2527","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-growing-tips-care"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2527","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2527"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2527\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2529,"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2527\/revisions\/2529"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2527"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2527"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2527"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2527"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}