{"id":5746,"date":"2026-10-18T19:29:28","date_gmt":"2026-10-18T19:29:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/?p=5746"},"modified":"2026-10-18T20:21:12","modified_gmt":"2026-10-18T20:21:12","slug":"do-you-need-to-graft-greenhouse-watermelons","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/do-you-need-to-graft-greenhouse-watermelons\/","title":{"rendered":"Do You Need to Graft Greenhouse Watermelons in Cold Climates? | Forum Diary USDA Zone 4"},"content":{"rendered":"\n\n<div class=\"kk-star-ratings kksr-auto kksr-align-left kksr-valign-top\"\n    data-payload='{&quot;align&quot;:&quot;left&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;5746&quot;,&quot;slug&quot;:&quot;default&quot;,&quot;valign&quot;:&quot;top&quot;,&quot;ignore&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;reference&quot;:&quot;auto&quot;,&quot;class&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;count&quot;:&quot;2&quot;,&quot;legendonly&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;readonly&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;score&quot;:&quot;4.5&quot;,&quot;starsonly&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;best&quot;:&quot;5&quot;,&quot;gap&quot;:&quot;5&quot;,&quot;greet&quot;:&quot;Share your rating&quot;,&quot;legend&quot;:&quot;4.5\\\/5 - (2 votes)&quot;,&quot;size&quot;:&quot;24&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Do You Need to Graft Greenhouse Watermelons in Cold Climates? | Forum Diary USDA Zone 4&quot;,&quot;width&quot;:&quot;128&quot;,&quot;_legend&quot;:&quot;{score}\\\/{best} - ({count} {votes})&quot;,&quot;font_factor&quot;:&quot;1.25&quot;}'>\n            \n<div class=\"kksr-stars\">\n    \n<div class=\"kksr-stars-inactive\">\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" data-star=\"1\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" data-star=\"2\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" data-star=\"3\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" data-star=\"4\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" data-star=\"5\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n    <\/div>\n    \n<div class=\"kksr-stars-active\" style=\"width: 128px;\">\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n    <\/div>\n<\/div>\n                \n\n<div class=\"kksr-legend\" style=\"font-size: 19.2px;\">\n            4.5\/5 - (2 votes)    <\/div>\n    <\/div>\n<p><!-- ===== QUICK TAKE SUMMARY ===== --><\/p>\n<div class=\"tldr-box\" style=\"background: #f4f9f4; padding: 20px; border-left: 5px solid #4CAF50; margin-bottom: 20px; border-radius: 4px;\"><strong>\ud83c\udf45 Quick take:<\/strong> In this thread, Northern growers (USDA Zones 3-4) discuss the art of grafting greenhouse vegetables. While grafting tomatoes or cucumbers might not be worth the effort for some, the growers agree that grafting watermelons and melons onto vigorous rootstocks (like <em>Lagenaria<\/em>) is absolutely essential for a short-season climate. The discussion covers seed-starting timelines, overcoming rootstock germination issues, greenhouse planting density, and the strict rule of pruning large watermelons to a single vine to guarantee one massive fruit per plant.<\/div>\n<p><!-- ===== TABLE OF CONTENTS ===== --><\/p>\n<div class=\"toc-box\" style=\"background: #ffffff; padding: 15px 20px; border: 1px solid #e0e0e0; margin-bottom: 30px; border-radius: 4px;\">\n<p><strong style=\"display: block; margin-bottom: 10px; font-size: 1.1em;\">In this thread:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul style=\"margin: 0; padding-left: 20px; line-height: 1.6;\">\n<li><a href=\"#why-graft\">Why Graft Vegetables? Disease Resistance and Vigor<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#grafted-vs-ungrafted\">Grafted vs. Ungrafted Melons in Cold Climates<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#greenhouse-support\">Supporting Heavy Fruit in the Greenhouse<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#timelines-rootstock\">Seed Starting Timelines &amp; Lagenaria Rootstock Tips<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#spacing-yields\">Greenhouse Spacing and Yield Expectations<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n<h2 id=\"why-graft\">Why Graft Vegetables? Disease Resistance and Vigor<\/h2>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">R<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">Russi (Anna) <span class=\"author-stats\">\u2b50 Pro Grower (1,275 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd Moscow Region (USDA Zone 4)<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-date\" style=\"font-size: 0.85em; color: #777; margin-top: 3px;\">\ud83d\udcc5 Posted December 12, 2021<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>Hey everyone! Honestly, I&#8217;ve just been lurking and reading about your vegetable grafting experiments. I just don&#8217;t get the point. Eggplants, cucumbers, tomatoes??? Why bother, when even without grafting, I have so much harvest I don&#8217;t know what to do with it all.<\/p>\n<p>Grafting melons? I planted 5 bushes in the greenhouse, and my husband and I could barely finish eating them before they started spoiling.<\/p>\n<p>I totally get grafting fruit trees, that makes sense. I have limited space and can&#8217;t plant a dozen different varieties, otherwise I&#8217;d be drowning in fruit again. So, I have 1 plum tree with 2 other varieties grafted onto it. Two sweet cherry trees, one of which has multiple varieties grafted from my neighbors&#8217; yards. My apple trees are multi-grafted too. Here is what my cherry plum (alycha) looks like:<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/uploads\/monthly_2021_12\/IMG_20200730_144842.jpg.769aa6676ee15ad1924ff8fc651b2d40.jpg\" alt=\"Multi-grafted plum tree branches\" \/><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">P<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">PomiTa (Tatyana) <span class=\"author-stats\">\ud83c\udf45 Member (833 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd St. Petersburg, Russia (USDA Zone 4)<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-date\" style=\"font-size: 0.85em; color: #777; margin-top: 3px;\">\ud83d\udcc5 Posted December 12, 2021<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>I grafted eggplants to dodge Verticillium wilt. They still wilted eventually, but not nearly as fast as the ungrafted ones.<\/p>\n<p>I tried grafting tomatoes to trick Edema, since it runs rampant in my apartment during the seedling stage. It didn&#8217;t work\u2014the professional <em>Emperador<\/em> rootstock caught Edema first. I also hoped that grafting my favorite variety, <em>Vater Rhein<\/em>, would fix its naturally scrawny, weeping foliage. That actually worked! It turned into an absolute monster of a vine. Unfortunately, I didn&#8217;t plant an ungrafted one next to it for comparison. Maybe it would have grown well anyway in this hot summer.<\/p>\n<p>I grafted cucumbers just out of curiosity. I definitely won&#8217;t do that again. As you rightly pointed out, there&#8217;s always an overabundance of them anyway.<\/p>\n<p><strong>But watermelons and melons on rootstock<\/strong> entirely escape Fusarium wilt and pack on much larger fruits in our cold St. Petersburg weather. Here, I am 100% on board with grafting! I suspect our summers won&#8217;t always be as hot and &#8220;watermelon-friendly&#8221; as this year, and that&#8217;s when those grafted roots will really save the day \ud83d\ude09<\/p>\n<p>P.S. That cherry plum tree is awesome!<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">W<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">Wera (Vera) <span class=\"author-stats\">\ud83c\udf45 Member (302 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd Vladimir, Russia (USDA Zone 4)<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-date\" style=\"font-size: 0.85em; color: #777; margin-top: 3px;\">\ud83d\udcc5 Posted December 13, 2021<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>My grafted eggplants totally dodged Verticillium wilt! I grafted them onto <em>Rugantino F2<\/em> and <em>De Barao<\/em> tomatoes using different methods. The ungrafted ones suffered again. I drenched them with a strong hydrogen peroxide solution, which helped, but the plants were already weakened.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">P<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">PomiTa (Tatyana) <span class=\"author-stats\">\ud83c\udf45 Member (833 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd St. Petersburg, Russia (USDA Zone 4)<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-date\" style=\"font-size: 0.85em; color: #777; margin-top: 3px;\">\ud83d\udcc5 Posted December 13, 2021<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>I had an interesting result: I grafted 4 eggplants onto the exact same rootstock (<em>Slivka Bendrika<\/em> tomato). Two were <em>Clorinda<\/em> (round shape) and two were <em>Samurai<\/em> (long shape). The <em>Clorinda<\/em> was finicky and started wilting, while the <em>Samurai<\/em> held strong until the bitter end)) The grafted eggplant bushes were way more vigorous in terms of height and foliage, but I didn&#8217;t notice any real difference in the actual harvest yield.<\/p>\n<p>You really need to observe these things for more than one season to draw any solid conclusions. But for now&#8230; I&#8217;m just playing around \ud83d\ude01<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<h2 id=\"grafted-vs-ungrafted\">Grafted vs. Ungrafted Melons in Cold Climates<\/h2>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">G<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">gala7496 (Galina) <span class=\"author-stats\">\u2b50 Pro Grower (2,477 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd St. Petersburg, Russia (USDA Zone 4)<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-date\" style=\"font-size: 0.85em; color: #777; margin-top: 3px;\">\ud83d\udcc5 Posted December 12, 2021<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>I&#8217;m from St. Petersburg too. I planted a melon in my greenhouse without grafting. It grew beautifully, flowered heavily, but didn&#8217;t set a single fruit. I pinched the vines exactly as recommended, but no luck. I think up here, it just won&#8217;t work without grafting.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">P<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">PomiTa (Tatyana) <span class=\"author-stats\">\ud83c\udf45 Member (833 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd St. Petersburg, Russia (USDA Zone 4)<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-date\" style=\"font-size: 0.85em; color: #777; margin-top: 3px;\">\ud83d\udcc5 Posted December 12, 2021<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>Galya, my neighbor has been growing melons without grafting for 3 or 4 years now. Our greenhouses are practically right next to each other. She does get melons, but they are tiny, no more than 3.3 lbs (1.5 kg). Granted, this year the weather was so favorable that some of hers reached about 6.6 lbs (3 kg).<\/p>\n<p>My grafted ones grew to 9-11 lbs (4-5 kg). And my biggest grafted watermelon was nearly 22 lbs (10 kg)!<\/p>\n<p>Oh, I even managed to attach a photo \ud83d\ude0a<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/uploads\/monthly_2021_12\/1170AB4F-6134-477A-9A50-87A1100BC940.jpeg.ce53e3af54c4fc630b86a5cc0072b8de.jpeg\" alt=\"Grafted watermelons hanging in a greenhouse\" \/><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<h2 id=\"greenhouse-support\">Supporting Heavy Fruit in the Greenhouse<\/h2>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">G<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">Galiy (Galina) <span class=\"author-stats\">\u2b50 Pro Grower (17,945 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd Moscow Region (USDA Zone 4)<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-date\" style=\"font-size: 0.85em; color: #777; margin-top: 3px;\">\ud83d\udcc5 Posted December 13, 2021<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>Tatyana, where exactly are you located? Those watermelons are amazing! \ud83d\udc4f But I don&#8217;t understand what they are hanging in.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">P<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">PomiTa (Tatyana) <span class=\"author-stats\">\ud83c\udf45 Member (833 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd St. Petersburg, Russia (USDA Zone 4)<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-date\" style=\"font-size: 0.85em; color: #777; margin-top: 3px;\">\ud83d\udcc5 Posted December 13, 2021<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>Girls, sorry for barging into someone else&#8217;s journal like this! But Lyuda&#8217;s thread is so warm and cozy, I&#8217;ve been lurking and reading you all for a long time))<\/p>\n<p>My garden is about 18 miles (30 km) south of St. Petersburg. I&#8217;ve been gardening independently for 18 years (I don&#8217;t count the forced labor in my mom&#8217;s and grandmas&#8217; gardens \ud83d\ude01). I am deeply passionate about roses and, of course, tomatoes! But pretty much everything else grows here too.<\/p>\n<p>My husband hangs the watermelons and melons in vegetable mesh bags. You can save up mesh onion bags over the season, or just buy them online.<\/p>\n<p>Looking back at my photo, the mesh nets aren&#8217;t on them yet. That means the watermelons weren&#8217;t quite heavy enough to snap off the vine yet. The red tags attached to them mark the exact date the fruit set (not the pollination date).<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">G<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">Galiy (Galina) <span class=\"author-stats\">\u2b50 Pro Grower (17,945 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd Moscow Region (USDA Zone 4)<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-date\" style=\"font-size: 0.85em; color: #777; margin-top: 3px;\">\ud83d\udcc5 Posted December 13, 2021<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>It&#8217;s a good thing you mentioned writing down the date! I need to remember that for summer. Otherwise, it&#8217;s impossible to know when to pick a watermelon. One year I let it hang too long and it tasted like grass \ud83d\ude44<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">P<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">PomiTa (Tatyana) <span class=\"author-stats\">\ud83c\udf45 Member (833 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd St. Petersburg, Russia (USDA Zone 4)<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-date\" style=\"font-size: 0.85em; color: #777; margin-top: 3px;\">\ud83d\udcc5 Posted December 13, 2021<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>Oh, checking ripeness is still a dark art for me. I read how people can tell just by thumping them or listening to the sound, and I&#8217;m amazed. The dried tendril and spoon-leaf tricks have never worked for me either. And the ripening timeline can vary wildly.<\/p>\n<p>The hotter it is, the faster they ripen. This past summer, my icebox varieties (the ones bred to be 4-5 lbs \/ 2-2.5 kg) managed to hit full sweetness in just 30 days! If an overripe watermelon tastes like grass, that&#8217;s weird, usually, overripe ones just turn to mush inside. Maybe yours lacked fertilizer?<\/p>\n<p>Here are photos of a bicolor variety called <em>Chameleon<\/em>. Highly recommend it!<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/uploads\/monthly_2021_12\/24886748-B9CC-4958-AF23-51A57C98FC98.jpeg.e3161e326075e02fd7bb92fffea5fe1d.jpeg\" alt=\"Chameleon bicolor watermelon\" \/><br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/uploads\/monthly_2021_12\/426DCDCF-9947-47D7-ADC3-BCA5F4A7536F.jpeg.b6248156b6acf1d0dae82ff88b9c422b.jpeg\" alt=\"Chameleon watermelon inside yellow\" \/><br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/uploads\/monthly_2021_12\/85967299-DAEB-4334-BF65-235A43B98202.jpeg.fac2d5a7c34414621a5fd04477f2694f.jpeg\" alt=\"Chameleon watermelon texture\" \/><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<h2 id=\"timelines-rootstock\">Seed Starting Timelines &amp; Lagenaria Rootstock Tips<\/h2>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">R<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">Roz (Roza) <span class=\"author-stats\">\u2b50 Pro Grower (1,338 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"post-date\" style=\"font-size: 0.85em; color: #777; margin-top: 3px;\">\ud83d\udcc5 Posted December 13, 2021<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>Could you share a bit about your timeline? When do you sow the seeds, when do you transplant into the greenhouse, and do you use special fertilizers? I want to try growing watermelons for the first time this year.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">P<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">PomiTa (Tatyana) <span class=\"author-stats\">\ud83c\udf45 Member (833 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd St. Petersburg, Russia (USDA Zone 4)<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-date\" style=\"font-size: 0.85em; color: #777; margin-top: 3px;\">\ud83d\udcc5 Posted December 13, 2021<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>It&#8217;s hard to explain in a few words when I&#8217;m still figuring it out myself.<\/p>\n<p>Timelines are tricky here in St. Pete. You can never guess when the soil will finally warm up. Some folks cover their beds with clear plastic to speed up the process, but I haven&#8217;t gone that far. Last year, I sowed in early April, and my seedlings got way too leggy and overgrown. This year, I sowed them about 10 days later, and it was perfect&#8211;the soil only warmed up to 57-60\u00b0F (14-16\u00b0C) by the end of May. But I ended up having to do the grafting out at the property, which felt weird, but I couldn&#8217;t exactly transport fragile, freshly-grafted plants in the car&#8230; Next year, hoping for an early spring, I want to start in early April again.<\/p>\n<p>Generally, if you move plants into your greenhouse around the same time every year, you should start the melon process about <strong>25-30 days before your planned transplant date<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p>You sow the scion (watermelon\/melon seeds) first, and then about 5-7 days later, you sow the rootstock. BUT! That only applies if you are using professional rootstock seeds or your own saved <em>Lagenaria<\/em> or <em>Ficifolia<\/em> seeds, because those sprout quickly and evenly. If you are using cheap store-bought <em>Lagenaria<\/em> seeds, they take forever to sprout and you really have to jump through hoops to get them going. In that case, you have to sow the rootstock earlier than the watermelon.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">G<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">gala7496 (Galina) <span class=\"author-stats\">\u2b50 Pro Grower (2,477 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd St. Petersburg, Russia (USDA Zone 4)<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-date\" style=\"font-size: 0.85em; color: #777; margin-top: 3px;\">\ud83d\udcc5 Posted December 13, 2021<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>I gave up on using <em>Lagenaria<\/em> because of its terrible germination rates.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">P<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">PomiTa (Tatyana) <span class=\"author-stats\">\ud83c\udf45 Member (833 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd St. Petersburg, Russia (USDA Zone 4)<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-date\" style=\"font-size: 0.85em; color: #777; margin-top: 3px;\">\ud83d\udcc5 Posted December 13, 2021<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>Galya, it does sprout! Almost at 100%! Out of 5 packs, I only had 2 or 3 seeds fail.<\/p>\n<p>But you really have to baby them: soak the <em>Lagenaria<\/em> seeds in hot water, then keep them on a warm radiator for 24 hours before burying them in the soil. They will sprout, but very unevenly. That unpredictable behavior drove me crazy, which is why I tried growing my own <em>Lagenaria<\/em> gourd this year to harvest fresh seeds. I haven&#8217;t cracked it open yet, so I don&#8217;t know what&#8217;s inside.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/uploads\/monthly_2021_12\/796EAB3B-EE65-4F94-8D49-2AD88A121704.jpeg.15888cdaadd845c67b4b3beb4dcc669a.jpeg\" alt=\"Homegrown Lagenaria gourd for rootstock seeds\" \/><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<h2 id=\"spacing-yields\">Greenhouse Spacing and Yield Expectations<\/h2>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">D<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">Da4nica (Ekaterina) <span class=\"author-stats\">\u2b50 Pro Grower (3,731 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd Khimki, Moscow Region (USDA Zone 4)<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-date\" style=\"font-size: 0.85em; color: #777; margin-top: 3px;\">\ud83d\udcc5 Posted December 13, 2021<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>Tanya, could you write down your watermelon greenhouse spacing? How many roots do you plant per bed?<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">P<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">PomiTa (Tatyana) <span class=\"author-stats\">\ud83c\udf45 Member (833 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd St. Petersburg, Russia (USDA Zone 4)<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-date\" style=\"font-size: 0.85em; color: #777; margin-top: 3px;\">\ud83d\udcc5 Posted December 13, 2021<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>Katya, the principle is almost identical to spacing tomatoes \ud83d\ude01 I just plant them &#8220;by eye&#8221; now.<\/p>\n<p>In my 26-foot (8 m) greenhouse, I grew 30 watermelons on the center bed. The bed is about 2.8 ft (0.85 m) wide and 22 ft (6.7-6.8 m) long. On the side beds, I can fit 16-17 vines, but those beds are very narrow, only about 21 inches (52-54 cm) wide, with 18-inch (45 cm) walking paths.<\/p>\n<p>You can plant watermelons closer together if you don&#8217;t plan on keeping a second vine. I couldn&#8217;t get a second leader to work on the giant varieties anyway. It works for the small icebox types, but not the big ones.<\/p>\n<p>Look at this photo from August 20. The spent vines have already been removed, so it looks almost spacious. You can see the melons peeking through the watermelons))<\/p>\n<p>On the left side bed, I am growing peppers. Next year I&#8217;m evicting them to the tomato greenhouse. I&#8217;m cutting back on tomatoes \ud83d\ude48<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/uploads\/monthly_2021_12\/1E7D5C47-669E-4BCA-8C5B-41A06B741466.jpeg.e5a3675b158bb24565c503329bc5abed.jpeg\" alt=\"Watermelon greenhouse spacing\" \/><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">D<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">Da4nica (Ekaterina) <span class=\"author-stats\">\u2b50 Pro Grower (3,731 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd Khimki, Moscow Region (USDA Zone 4)<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-date\" style=\"font-size: 0.85em; color: #777; margin-top: 3px;\">\ud83d\udcc5 Posted December 13, 2021<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>That is quite the scale! How many watermelons do you get per plant on average?<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-post\">\n<div class=\"author-header\">\n<div class=\"forum-avatar\">P<\/div>\n<div class=\"author-meta\">\n<div class=\"author-name\">PomiTa (Tatyana) <span class=\"author-stats\">\ud83c\udf45 Member (833 posts)<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"author-geo\">\ud83d\udccd St. Petersburg, Russia (USDA Zone 4)<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-date\" style=\"font-size: 0.85em; color: #777; margin-top: 3px;\">\ud83d\udcc5 Posted December 13, 2021<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"post-content\">\n<p>ONE! Exactly one.<\/p>\n<p>If you want to grow a single watermelon weighing 22+ lbs (10+ kg), you must prune the plant to a single vine. It&#8217;s exactly like tomatoes. If you want giant beefsteaks, you prune to 1 or 2 leaders. If you don&#8217;t prune suckers, you&#8217;ll get the same overall weight, but it&#8217;ll be a bunch of tiny fruits (assuming the genetics are actually for a large variety).<\/p>\n<p>There are also icebox varieties (like cherry tomatoes in the tomato world). Those you can immediately prune to 2 or 3 leaders. You&#8217;ll get multiple watermelons weighing 2 to 4 lbs (1-2 kg) each.<\/p>\n<p>There&#8217;s another factor. If you have a long, hot summer, you can let watermelons sprawl on the ground outside, and they will self-regulate. You get what you get. But up here in the North, we prefer a guaranteed result. Therefore, we grow greenhouse watermelons on a single vertical vine. The vine will naturally abort the second fruit anyway&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>You can let a second vine grow <em>after<\/em> you harvest the first massive watermelon. But personally, I&#8217;ve only ever had time for a second fruit to ripen twice in my life. More experienced melon growers manage it more often though.<\/p>\n<p>Sorry for rambling, hope that made sense! \ud83d\ude35<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p><!-- EDITOR'S NOTE --><\/p>\n<div class=\"editor-note\" style=\"background: #eef7ff; padding: 15px; border-left: 4px solid #2196F3; margin-top: 15px; font-size: 0.9em;\">\n<p><strong>\ud83d\udc68\u200d\ud83c\udf3e Editor&#8217;s Notes<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul style=\"margin-bottom: 0;\">\n<li id=\"term-anchor1\"><strong>Mesh Hammocks:<\/strong> When growing watermelons vertically on a trellis in a greenhouse, the vines cannot support the weight of the fruit. Growers use nylon mesh bags, old pantyhose, or specialized melon nets tied to the heavy overhead greenhouse rafters to cradle the fruit as it grows.<\/li>\n<li id=\"term-anchor2\"><strong>Lagenaria Rootstock:<\/strong> The Bottle Gourd (<em>Lagenaria siceraria<\/em>) is the most common rootstock used for grafting watermelons in cold climates. Its massive root system is highly resistant to Fusarium wilt and continues pulling nutrients even when soil temperatures drop well below what a natural watermelon root system can tolerate.<\/li>\n<li id=\"term-anchor3\"><strong>The One-Melon Rule:<\/strong> In short-season Northern climates (USDA Zones 3-4), a greenhouse watermelon plant only has enough solar energy and time to ripen a single large fruit. Growers ruthlessly prune all side vines (suckers) and pinch off any subsequent flowers once the primary fruit is set, forcing 100% of the plant&#8217;s energy into sizing up and sweetening that one melon before autumn frosts arrive.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\ud83c\udf45 Quick take: In this thread, Northern growers (USDA Zones 3-4) discuss the art of grafting greenhouse vegetables. While grafting tomatoes or cucumbers might not be worth the effort for some, the growers agree that grafting watermelons and melons onto vigorous rootstocks (like Lagenaria) is absolutely essential for a short-season climate. The discussion covers seed-starting &#8230; <a title=\"Do You Need to Graft Greenhouse Watermelons in Cold Climates? | Forum Diary USDA Zone 4\" class=\"read-more\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/do-you-need-to-graft-greenhouse-watermelons\/\" aria-label=\"Read more about Do You Need to Graft Greenhouse Watermelons in Cold Climates? | Forum Diary USDA Zone 4\">Read more<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5746,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[534,806],"tags":[1392,1389,1390,1391,1393,1394],"class_list":["post-5746","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-melons-watermelons","category-grower-diaries","tag-fusarium-wilt-prevention","tag-grafted-watermelons","tag-greenhouse-watermelon-spacing","tag-lagenaria-rootstock","tag-northern-climate-melons","tag-single-vine-pruning"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5746","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5746"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5746\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5753,"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5746\/revisions\/5753"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5746"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5746"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=5746"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tomat-pomidor.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=5746"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}